Birthday challenge 2k16 - EN

the calm before the storm (c) jneu
the calm before the storm (c) jneu

Sunday, 13 of March 2016 - Birthday Challenge.

The goal is set - to climb 33 routes! But in the back of my head I really wanted to go for the 50 routes. Big words - the truth is, I have no idea what lies ahead. I've done long alpine climbs with 5.11d cruxes, but I have no clue how this challenge will affect me physically. Anyway, I've waited a long time for this and I'm determined to pull trough no matter what.

The day started with a little bit of rain...

09:05 am - It is raining when Jürgen picks me up at home. First stop is the gas station to get some more food. We stall for time, it should be better a few hours later. We'll see.

 

10:01 am - We set up camp at the sector Winklerturm. After taking a few pictures we start at sektor Windleger. I solo a 5.4 and we realise there are no bolts at all. What to do? Redpointing is what I want to go for. But risking a serious injury for some 5.8's? On top of it, it is still drizzeling and the rock is quite wet. So we decide to toprope all routes without protection. A word and a blow, and we clear the first sector.

 

10:40 am - And the second follows quick. Sector Schwarze Platte. Pitches number 7 to 17. Elmar and his family come for a visit and to support. Very nice. He is delegated to take some pictures.

 

11:30 am - It´s still drizzeling. The first 5.10's are coming up. Not that easy to climb three of them back to back. Especially in the famous "Comici" I have to grab for real for the first time. But everything is going according to plan and i bag the first 25 pitches. Jürgen wants to limber himself up, and does so by climbing the "Winkler-Trilogy" and the "Comici". At least afterwards his hands are warm.

 

01:00 pm - We relocate to sector Platten. Some classic cracks awaiting us. "Silent feet" (5.10c),  "Schwarzer Riss" (5.10d) and "Weiße Pracht" (5.10d). I really have to comitt myself, because it's still quite wet - no the best thing for friction climbing. But luckily I pull through. Jürgen can't resist those classics and he also give them a shot. Michi, directly from a ski tour, brings coffee. An amazing feat of friendship!

Man genießt den schönen Tag...
Man genießt den schönen Tag...

02:20 pm - After the break there´s the next classic route waiting for me - "Güntherwand". But this one is quite fragile and I´m afraid that the whole thing might bury us. So we hurry to climb the rest of the routes there, to get away from this sector. At least the rain stops. As a sideline, I climb pitch number 33. I think is is "Comptonband". Slowly but surely I start to get tiered. Crimps I usally can grab comfortable, seem suddenly very small and I have to hasten to the next jug. We dismiss Jürgen who is going for a trailrun. Godspeed for the Vienne City Marathon by the way. And a big THANK YOU.

 

03:15 pm - "Laurins Rache" (8-) is the first route that shakes me off. I have no power left for roofclimbing. And I really don't want to loose some more strenght while rehearsing the moves. Just keep going. The hardest part is right ahead of me. Four 5.10's and the infmaous "Dülfer" crack. Somehow I manage to climb everything first try, but one. In the process my energy levels drop and additionally I get a little confused. I can`t remember the exact tally anymore and loose count nearly every other route. Something around 40. Luckily Michi keeps counting and my brother Jules is joining us. Time for a break and an energy cake.

 

05:00 pm - Back to sector Platten. We calculate, if i climb this one and two other sectors completely, I reach a tally of 68 - exactly 50% of all the routes here. Seems like a great goal to me. I have mostly very easy routes left, but I really start to pay the toll. Additional to this, it dawning. Suddenly Fabio shows up. He doesn´t want to learn anymore, so he comes to belay me - at night and in cold conditions.  That´s the spirit!

06:30 pm - The end is near. As long as the headtorches are on. I climb like a robot and recognise a upcoming back pain. The route "Direct Zsigmondy" demands everything i have left. But this is the last hurdle. Just some 5.5's and 5.6's. Suddenly i get an uneasy feeling, because I realise that I'm avoiding the sector Totenkirchl with it´s long and strenuous routes all day long. I convince the guys to go there for two last pitches. 70 pitches sounds better than 68, and I promise to stop there.

 

07:30 pm - Fabio delegates me into "Totenkirchl SO" (5.10b). Since I've already reached my primary goals, I go for it.  A onsight attempt at night after 68 pitches is a real battle. I've never imagined to sweat like this in such chill conditions. One more! "Totenkirchl left". I have very good memories of that one, and since it's probably the proudest line there, a worthy finish for my challenge.

But there was no dignity in what I´ve done next. Mentally and physically destroyed, I aim upwards, desperately avoiding to fall into the void. I am sure I would have taken a wipper, if it wasn't so freaking dark beneath me.

But I didn`t.

 

07:52 pm - Let´s call it a day! The last two pitches made it easy for me to decide. I think I could go on all night climbing 5.8's, with a lot of pain though. But I'm greatful that it is over. A big thank you is in order for my selfless belayers Jürgen, Michi, Fabio und Jules. You made this possible for me. 70 pitches, I've nerver anticipated that. WOW. 

The tension is fading and I realize I can´t walk upright properly anymore. I crave a bath and my bed. At home I see a pizza waiting for me. What a beautiful day.

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